A strapless kitesurfing session at Long Reef & Dee Why

Gallery of Hans strapless kitesurfing at Dee Why

Hans sent through these great go-pro images from a strapless kitesurfing session he managed to jag the other day. This was Sunday’s great session I believe where we were blessed my sunshine and cranking winds. Even I managed to get down for my first kite in a while and got out on the 7m! Fab stuff Hans, keep the pictures rolling in.

If you haven’t yet tried strapless Continue reading A strapless kitesurfing session at Long Reef & Dee Why

VIDEO : Free your feet

I stumbled across this video today and I’m posting it up for 2 reasons. 1. I want to watch it later and I won’t loose the link :) and 2. It’s bloody awesome!

Some really good inspiration for some strapless tricks. I did note the guy is wearing a helmet too, this is probably a good idea as you are most likely to get a board in the bonce at some stage doing this! enjoy!

ARTICLE : How to choose a strapless surfboard Part 3

In Rob’s last part of the choosing a strapless surfboard for kite surfing he finishes off talking about types of construction and fins and sums everything up. We hope you enjoy the last part of this article and the whole article together. Please feel free to rate it at the bottom if you have found it useful and post any questions or your views at the bottom.

[button color=”blue ” size=”small” link=”#” target=”blank” ]<- Part 2[/button]

EPOXY OR FIBREGLASS?

cab_board_constructionIf you’re going to ride with straps, there’s only one answer to this question: Epoxy. If you go to a shop looking for a surfboard designed for kiting virtually ALL of them are going to be epoxy; and for good reason. Epoxy is tough. It minimises warranty returns. But it’s not necessarily the best material for a kiteboard, especially if you’re planning to ride strapless.

I’ve ridden lots of epoxy boards as well as bamboo boards and of course, fibreglass boards.

My experience suggests that most of the commercially-available epoxy boards are for the most part too thick and too floaty. They sit ON the water. I’ve owned and ridden quite a few and at the time I really liked them until I rode other boards later.  Thick also means it’s less likely to break; again, good reason for this from a commercial perspective.

The other option is the standard fibreglass surfboard construction. Fibreglass boards are great. They have flex, they’re light, they just feel “alive”. Epoxy boards on the other hand (for the most part) feel like a cork bobbing around in the water. Bouncy, too light. They don’t seem to want to plane well and they have no inertia. I’ve never paddle surfed an epoxy board that I liked, with the exception of SLX epoxy, which is meant to feel a lot like fiberglass.

At one stage I had two different kite surfboards that were almost identical measurements; one Surf-Tech epoxy, the other standard fibreglass.  The fibreglass board was awesome, the Surftech one was terrible. Nothing to do with the shape. The fundamental difference was the bounce. Because the epoxy board was light, it sat on the top of the water and just bounced around everywhere. The fibreglass board sat IN the water.

Unfortunately the main problem with fibreglass surfboards for kiting is that the break and damage easily, which is why the commercial folks don’t make them out of fibreglass.  I much prefer the ride of a fibreglass board for both kiting and surfing. But you’ll find that unless you make some modifications to a fibreglass board you’re going to damage it straight away when you kite on it. I’ve seen folks snap a brand new fibreglass surfboard on the first go in a kite session. At a minimum, you’re going to put heel marks and create deck compression on a fibreglass board from the very first time you ride it. There’ virtually no way to avoid it.

So, if you want to go down the fibreglass road there are a couple of ways that you can avoid or at least minimise the damage potential of fibreglass boards:

Making your fiberglass board last longer.  There are several approaches here. The first and most obvious one is to just put a few extra layers of glass on the board to make it stronger. But the deck underneath with the foam is still going to compress and there’s not much you can do about that. A bit of extra weight on a kiteboard isn’t necessarily a bad thing – as long as it’s in the right places. The other approach is to use a sheet of carbon fibre over the top or around the rails for extra strength, but that can be costly, especially if you’re just learning how to do this.

My favourite technique involves taking a router and making a couple of channels about 25cm long either side of the stringer halfway to the rails from the centre. Cut the channels nearly the thickness of the board.   (Say 80% of the thickness). Drop a couple of pieces of Jarra into the channels about 25cm in length and 5-10mm wide at about the centre of balance of the board along where your front foot sits, then fill the channels with resin and glass over the entire deck with a couple of layers of 4oz fibreglass – but only over the CENTRE of the board – not the entire deck.  The reason this works is that the extra glass in the centre along with those extra stringers gives you extra strength, but if you glass the entire board, all you are doing is adding additional weight – nothing more.  All that extra weight makes the board harder to control and harder to turn. If you have the funds and the skills, you could probably use carbon fibre instead of fibreglass.

However, unless you kite like a grandmother, you’re going to find that eventually you’ll compress the deck under your feet on a fibreglass board and eventually even on an epoxy board. There’s just no way around it.  So, another trick I use to minimise this is to put a bit of padding on the deck that cushions the impact of your foot on the board. It doesn’t eliminate the problem, but it does reduce it. You can get some SUP deck grip and spread it around the area where your front foot hits the board or easier, I usually just buy a heel deck pad and put it on backwards with the heel pad just slightly forward of where you think the furthest point forward that your front foot will go, so that when you’re going out over some largish waves you can press your front foot a bit further forward against the heel pad and avoid losing the board.  It looks a bit odd but it does help a lot.

Take-away idea #5: Get a fibreglass board, but just expect that It’s going to get damaged pretty quickly, but don’t worry about it.

FINS:

surfboard-fin-guide-580-6Fins are tricky. I’ll be the first to admit, I still find the whole fin thing a bit like black magic. I have mates who surf who swear they can tell the difference between a fin with 1 mm extra rake or 1mm more splay, etc. I’m not so sure.  Everyone has different preferences. And skill levels can change perceptions.  I’m still experimenting and I’m still learning.

One thing I can say though is that dimensions and characteristics of fins on a kiteboard are less critical than fins on a board for paddle surfing, so don’t worry too much about. Try different things and see what works for you.

Several things to consider.  Remember: More fin area = more drag — so if you start putting bigger fins on your board you’re going to notice that it starts to feel sluggish as you start picking up speed on the board. To get an idea of just how much drag that comes from fins, take them off for about 10 minutes and have a go… It’ll feel silly at first but you’ll learn a lot.

Configuration. Slightly less radical, one thing you can try, especially in smaller surf, is to put some largish side fins on your board and take the centre fin out altogether.  You’ll have a lot of fun when you realise how easy it becomes to throw that board around across the top of the lip without that centre fin. Just a note here: as the surf gets bigger you’ll find it doesn’t work so well and you’ll spin out a lot.

Quad-fins? I guess some people like these and swear by them and there are lots of boards these days with quad-fin setups but I just can’t seem get them to work. The board just doesn’t want to turn when and how I’d like it to. I’m sure it’s a learning thing – many people obviously make them work and a lot of pro surfers are now riding them. If you can tell me how you do it, I’d love to hear how you did it!

In fact, Kelly Slater is now riding a FIVE-fin setup.

http://espn.go.com/action/surfing/blog/_/post/7119037/kelly-slater-fifth-wheel

Haven’t tried it for kiting but looks like it would be pretty easy to duplicate.  That centre fin seems to be nothing more than a standard kiteboard fin with FCS plugs on it! Somebody try it and let me know.

Another thing to try is to just reduce the size of the centre fin significantly, while increasing the relative size of the side fins. Experiment. Big centre fin, smaller side fins; small fins all around, big fins all around. You’ll quickly discover what you like and what works for you and what doesn’t.

Toe-in. On a board for kiting, one pet peeve is fins with too much toe-in. (Toe-in is how much the front of the fins point toward the centre of the board.) Toe-in can be great for surfing because it makes the board turn easier; but for kiting, too much of it makes for a really squirrelly ride – the board just doesn’t want to go in a straight line. Avoid. Even fins set straight with no toe-in at all seem to work well for kiting and most of the commercially-made boards for kiting use zero toe-in.

Splay. This is the degree to which the fins are tilted away from being perpendicular to the board—how much they tend to angle outward from the board. In my experience, it should be zero. Sometimes helps with paddle surfing to make the board turn easier, but it will wreck a kiteboard’s performance. The board will want to just try and constantly flick out from under you and feel horrible.

Take-away idea #6: Fins. Minimum toe-in; zero splay; everything else is personal preference.

PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER.

So, with all this in mind, what’s the optimum board for kiting?

Simple answer: It depends.

My suggestion is to experiment as much as you can.  Try going to the tip and see if you can find a couple of old boards that have been tossed out and try and repurpose them. I’ve done this several times with good results. Also, you can always find someone with an old beaten up board on Gumtree or eBay who’ll sell it to you for less than $100.

Get some cheap fins, buy some glass and resin and just play. You’ll discover the dimensions and the setup that works for you.  Alternately, you can always go to a good shaper and get them to make you something to your specifications – but this is obviously going to cost a bit more.

Years ago, I started off riding an old surfboard that I’d retired from surfing: a 6’6” X 2 5/8” X 19 ½”. At the time, I thought it was great – primarily because I hadn’t ridden anything else. I loved it.  But then, after riding a host of others, fibreglass, epoxy, wide, thin, narrow, fat,  I’m now riding a board that I wouldn’t even have considered a few years back, but after trying lots of other boards  this one finally feels like the “Goldilocks” board. JUUUUUST right.

As they say “Your Mileage May Vary” – but here’s what I like:

It’s a fibreglass board that I bought from a neighbour who was selling off a stack of boards she’d had made for her kids over the years.  The kids grew out of the boards and got new ones and they just tossed the old ones under the house. One of them turned out to be the perfect kiteboard for me. I paid $100 for it.

This one is 5’11 X 2 1/16” X 17 ¾”.

My previous board was 6’2” X 2 1/8th” X 18 1/18th”.  I thought this one was awesome til I rode the new one.  Before that I had a commercial Slingshot SST that was 6’2” X 2 ½ by about 19”. Loved it then but now the newer ones work even better for me. If I revisit this article in a year, I’ll probably have another view.

I’ve yet to reinforce the new one and after having only ridden it a handful of times, it’s already got some deck compression and a few other dings and things but hey, it works.

One of the main things I’ve noticed about the shorter board that makes it work so much better is that now I’m able to ride it with my back foot much closer to the tail all the time, which makes it loads easier to turn when I want to smack the lip or to carve a wide bottom turn, whereas with the longer boards, you have make that extra effort to pause for a moment and step back, which can interfere with your concentration and slow you down as you go into a turn or a more critical move. With the smaller board you just plough headlong into the move without having to shift your concentration or your weight.

Opportunity?

I’m going to throw this last paragraph out there to all the manufacturers who’re game to capitalise on a gap in the market at the moment. There are lots of surfboards out there you can buy that are designed for kiting. But my feeling is that right now, there’s no commercially-available board that captures all those attributes above that make for an ideal board for kiting.

So, let’s see if there are any shapers or companies who’re up for a challenge for a strapless kiteboard.

Someone design a fibreglass board with size specs as I’ve indicated above but with a difference from what’s out there now. I’ll happily test if and review if for you! Yes, there are some boards around with those kind of specs, but the ones I’ve seen are all heavily-glassed from tip to tail — and that doesn’t work. Yes, you do need extra protection in the centre of the board where your feet make contact with the board but there’s no need for all that extra glass on the front in back. It just adds weight and that ruins the way the board rides.

Put the glass under the front foot and then treat the deck with some cushioning of some sort so the deck won’t collapse with all that heavy riding. Keep the nose and the tail light and put some reinforcements around the fin inserts so they won’t get blasted out. The speeds and the pressure that kiting creates is a lot greater than surfing and if the plugs aren’t reinforced, there’s a good chance they’ll get pulled out.

Let’s see what happens!

Thanks for reading and happy kiting!

55

ARTICLE : How to choose a strapless surfboard Part 2

Following on from part 1 of Rob’s How to choose a strapless surfboard comes a few more points to think about before diving in and grabbing a board.

[button color=”blue ” size=”small” link=”http://www.kitesurfing.com.au/?p=3306″ target=”blank” ]<- Part 1 [/button] [button color=”blue ” size=”small” link=”#” target=”blank” ]Part 3 -> [/button]

RAILS: HARD AND SOFT.

RAIL-GUIDEOK, remember that you’re going to be riding the board with the rear of the rail hard into the water most of the time.  For the best grip you want a fairly hard edge on the board at the tail to about the mid-section to allow it to bite in the water and go upwind better. A soft rail makes it easy to turn but hard to edge. Some surfboards made for kiting even have an additional small wakeboard type fin ON the rail to help with this but I find they aren’t really needed and just get in the way of other things you want to do. A hard rail acts a bit like a virtual fin to grab the water, letting you edge more. But too much edge and it won’t release smoothly when you want to turn and may cause you to spin out unpredictably.

I’ve found that boards with soft rails near the tail just don’t work for kiting. You can’t edge as well and if you can’t edge, it’s tough to go upwind.

Take-away idea #2: RAILS: Look for a sharp, hard rail in the back that softens gradually toward the centre of the board.

BOTTOM SHAPE.board rails

I’ve tried all kinds of bottom shapes and IMO, the single concave is overwhelmingly the best bottom curve for kiting. I suspect that it’s because the concave, in combination with the hard rail near the tail of the board acts together like a fin; giving you more “bite” on the water and releasing nicely as you push it hard. Others will have a different view, but single concave has worked for me.
Rocker: You need rocker for two things: 1. Preventing nose-diving from steep take-offs and 2. Making it easier to turn by releasing the nose from contact form the water. In kiting, neither of these is an issue in 99% of circumstances, leading to the conclusion that you don’t need much rocker on a kiteboard.

Take-away idea #3: BOTTOM SHAPE: Single concave and generally flat rocker

VOLUME:

board_shapeNext you want to think about volume.  Volume on a board for paddle surfing is good. It helps you catch the wave, but too much volume on a kiteboard and the board will ride high on the water and that will make it bounce around, skate, and feel unstable and unpredictable. And that’s just horrible. I have a 6’0” fish board that’s 22” wide and 3” thick. It’s great for paddle surfing in onshore, sloppy conditions.  I tried once to kite on it and it was just awful in every way imaginable.  Sluggish, bouncy, skatey. Everything you don’t want a board to be.

So, remember, the key thing here is to find a board that sits IN the water, not ON the water, but NOT UNDER water. A board that sits IN the water will still plane when it’s got the power of the kite behind it but it isn’t going to bounce around on the water too much.  You achieve this by having the right total volume.

Take-away idea #4: VOLUME. Just enough so that the board should be IN the water, not ON the water or UNDER the water.

Stay tuned for the final part of Rob’s how to choose a strapless surfboard for kiting.

[button color=”blue ” size=”small” link=”http://www.kitesurfing.com.au/article-how-to-choose-a-strapless-surfboard-part-3/” target=”blank” ]Part 3 -> [/button]

(thanks to Surfer mag, shapers.com.au for the pics)

ARTICLE : How to choose a strapless surfboard Part 1

In our first article up on the site Rob talks about what he considers important in buying a surfboard for kitesurfing.

So, how do I choose a (strapless) surfboard for kiting? Well this question comes up all the time:

 “I want to start kiting on a surfboard—what’s the best size?”

There are lots of different things to think about
There are lots of different things to think about

OK, let’s give this one a shot. To answer bluntly – it’s complicated. And, it depends.

It depends on what you want/like to do; it depends on the conditions; it depends on your weight. And it depends on whether you want to ride strapped or strapless. I don’t ride straps, so, for the purpose of this article, we’re going to concentrate on a strapless board. I Tried straps in the early days and they drove me mad — no matter where I put the straps, they seem to be in the wrong place about 80% of the time and it ruined the experience for me. You have to make a lot of compromises with straps so the board needs to be quite different from a strapless board. A board with straps has to be stronger, heavier, made of different materials and It’ll probably also be smaller.

But let’s get back to the task at hand: How to choose a strapless surfboard for kiting. One of the coolest things about kiting is that as long as there’s a(reasonably) flat surface that you can stand on you can ride just about anything that floats. I’ve kited on chunks of discarded plywood, skimboards, boogie boards, a 9 ft malibu, lie-lows, SUPs – even a queen-sized inflatable air mattress!  It’s always a load of fun just to see what’s possible but finding a proper surfboard that works just right for kiting is quite a different story. In short, it’s a bit complicated.

If you want to paddle surf, you have to have a board that floats well, planes easily so you can catch the wave, and turns easily so you can do more than just ride in a straight line. All these requirements have to be factored into the design of the board. A board for kiting doesn’t need to be paddled, so it could in theory be smaller and thinner. You’ve got the kite producing loads of power so it doesn’t need to turn as easily. You’ll be travelling a lot faster so the toe-in on the fins is going to need to be less, else you’ll feel like you’re dragging an anchor behind you. So, with those initial things in mind, just grabbing a board that’s a good paddle surfing board is not necessarily going to make for a good surfboard for kiting.

For kiting a surfboard needs a lot of things to be just right: precisely balanced, finely tweaked and J U S T right in every way–to a point that even small things like a couple of mm here and there on the rail, thickness, rocker, width and length can make a huge difference in how the board surfs. A rail too hard or too soft and it all comes apart. Too much flotation and it bounces; too little flotation and it drags;  too much width and it skates; too little width and it sinks, etc. And because there are so many interactive variables, it’s not a simple thing to get it all right at once: Everything else can be right but all it takes is for one thing to be off and the board rides like a heap of rubbish.

So, let’s have a crack at it.

Disclaimer: OK, up front here and now: This is an article, it’s not a science paper. It’s not based on any calculations, computer modelling or other theoretical foundations.  It’s simply my empirical observations; there are no data presented so it’s just my personal opinion. You’re sure to find that others who will disagree with many of the things I have to say here so let me preface this and say that what follows here is my personal experience and recommendations from about eight years of riding strapless boards. Everybody comes at this from their own personal experiences. It’d be great to see someone do so proper science on this but to date, I haven’t seen it.  And also, just so you know, in everything I deal with here, we’re talking STRAPLESS riding. If you’re looking for a board to ride with straps, you may want to take someone else’s advice – I’ve never been able to get a surfboard with straps to work for me.  No matter where I’ve tried to put the straps, they seem to be in the wrong place about 80% of the time. But I’ve been kiting on strapless surfboards since about 2004 and I’ve ridden loads of them. Some of them are awesome; some of them not so awesome and some of them are absolutely horrible.

So, with all that in mind, let’s take a look at what to consider, where to start and how to pick one that’ll be good for you.

My first recommendation is to start by pushing your ‘Reset Button‘ on what constitutes a good surfboard for kiting—especially if you also surf. I’ve currently got about 10 surfboards of various shapes and sizes and IMHO, none of those boards are good for kiting, for a number of reasons. So, let’s start fresh.

Some folks argue that you can carry one board and use it for both kiting and surfing, but I don’t agree.  My boards for kiting are very different from my boards I ride for surfing.  There may be the odd person lucky enough to be able to use the same board for both but I suspect it would end up being a compromise both ways.  One of the factors seems to be your height. The taller you are the worse the disconnect between surfing boards and kiting boards. Tall people need longer boards for surfing, but not so much for kiting.

TIP 1 : SIZE—BIGGER IS NOT ALWAYS BETTER.

OK, let’s start with the basics: Catching a wave. When you’re surfing, before you can ride the wave you have to catch the wave—to catch the wave, the board has to plane. What that means is that it has to sit high enough in the water to pick up speed while you’re paddling, so that by the time the wave gets to you, you’re travelling at roughly the same speed as the wave. If you’re not moving fast enough you won’t catch the wave.  If your board is under water the entire time you’re paddling, you’re never going to plane.  If you’re moving too slowly the wave will just roll under you before you can get on it. A board that’s too thin or with insufficient volume will force you to take off later and later so that in order to catch the wave you’ll need to be sitting practically under the lip to have any hope of getting on it. The steeper, more critical the takeoff, the faster you have to get to your feet before the wave pitches you.  That’s why, as the surf gets bigger and bigger, you see surfers ride bigger and bigger boards. Big boards float high in the water and are easy to get on the plane and into the wave as it approaches. On really big waves you’ll see guys with huge boards (9ft+) sometimes actually catching the wave even before it breaks.

Bigger waves also tend to travel faster, making it even harder to paddle at wave speed, but a bigger board gives you the advantage because you can paddle it faster. Within limits, the higher a board sits in the water (generally speaking) the faster it will paddle.

If you didn’t have to paddle, a board for just riding a wave would ideally be a fair bit smaller than a board that has to both ride the wave and CATCH the wave. If you don’t have to worry about paddling to catch the wave and just want to surf, you can get by with a much smaller board with a lot less volume, which will make it much more manoeuvrable and a lot more fun to ride. And that’s the primary reason that the guys being towed in to those huge waves at places like Jaws on the jetskis are actually riding relatively small boards–They don’t have to paddle.

So, generally, when you’re surfing, you want a board with some volume that sits relatively high in the water, but not so high that you can’t dig the rail in when you need to in order to turn or hold the line in the barrel or going down the line of a steep wave. Too much volume and the board will tend to want to ride up the face of the wave and try and roll you. Too little volume and it sits too deep and the rails grab and keep you from getting any speed, or keep you from catching the wave in the first place.

When you’re kiting, the equation changes in a few ways. Firstly, like with tow-in surfing, you don’t have to paddle so you don’t need lots of volume to make the board sit on top of the water and plane. (But unlike tow-surfing, you’re generally not going to be riding 20Ft+ waves!)

Take-away idea #1: SIZE: The size for an ideal surfboard for kiting: smaller than the board you ride for surfing.

[button color=”blue ” size=”small” link=”http://www.kitesurfing.com.au/?p=3319″ target=”blank” ]Part 2 -> [/button]

Below are some photos highlighting different types and shapes of surfboards.